티볼리 - 홀론 호수의 전진기지

티볼리(T'boli)-

생소한 지명입니다.

아니 지명이라고 하니까 그러려니 할 정도로 낯선 이름입니다.

티볼리는 필리핀 맨 아랫섬인 민다나오에서도 아주 작은 도시?입니다.

말이 도시지 한국의 면 단위보다도 못한 큰 동네에 비견할 정도입니다.

이런 티볼리가 그나마 알려지게 된 계기는 바로 인접한 레이크 홀론 때문입니다.

레이크 홀론(lake holon -Lake Holon, T'boli, South Cotabato)은

백두산이나 한라산 처럼 산 정상에 큼직한 호수가 있어 그렇게 불리게 된 지명입니다.

이 호수에 가기 위해서는 바로 티볼리를 거쳐야 하기에

이 조그만 동네가 세상에 회자(膾炙)되기 시작한 셈입니다.

한국인이 이 티볼리를 찾을 이유는 거의 없습니다.

산을 좋아하는 이들이라면 이곳서 멀지 않은 곳에 위치한

마운틴 아포를 오를 것이고

물이 좋다하면 다바오 인근의 샤말을 찾는 편이 훨 낫기 때문입니다.

그런데 굳이 레이크 홀론을 찾는 이유는 대자연의 경이(驚異) 때문 일 것입니다.

1천700미터가 넘는 산 정상의 호수-

보지는 못했어도 그 말만으로도 가슴이 뛰니까 말입니다^^

나 역시 이곳을 찾은 이유는 호기심 발동 때문이었습니다.

티볼리서 30분 가량 떨어진 위치에 수랄라라는 소읍이 있습니다.

이곳에서 드릴링 작업을 하던 중 주말에 갈 만한 곳을 찾다가

바로 산 위에 호수가 있다는 말을 듣고 나서 주변 사람들에게 위치를 물어

바로 찾아 간 곳이 티볼리였습니다.

사전 답사차 티볼리를 방문 했지만 그곳에서 산 입구,

즉 입산 허가를 받는 곳까지는 오토바이로 한참을 가야한다기에 포기하고

수랄라로 돌아 왔습니다.

모자와 안경 먹거리 등 산행을 위한 준비 없이 갔기 때문입니다.

대신 이런저런 정보는 나름 확보할 수 있었습니다.

등산을 위해서는 산행신고와 함께 입산료를 내야하고

가이드를 대동해야 한다는 것 등입니다.

등산도 1박2일 코스가 가장 인기 있으며 포터&가이드와 함께 하면

식사 준비는 물론 직접 물고기를 잡아 바비큐도 만들어 준다고 합니다.

또 이 지역은 무슬림들이 있지만 대개는 프랜드 개념이랍니다.

친구처럼 사이좋게 지내는 관계로 위험하지 않다는 이야깁니다.

그렇다고 마냥 안심할 것은 못되니 피노이나 일행이 여럿이면 좋을 것 같습니다.

수랄라 공용 터미널에서 벤을 타면 티볼리까지 30분 정도 걸리는데

대개는 다바오쪽에서 오는 경우가 많은 관계로 굳이 수랄라를 경유할 필요는 없습니다.

다만 숙소는 수랄라쪽이 더 나은 편입니다.

티볼리는 호텔은 물론 일반 숙소 조차 변변치 못한 편입니다.

시작이 반이라는-

한국 속담 처럼 이제 티볼리까지는 다녀 왔으니 잘 준비해서

조만간 레이크 홀론을 오를 참입니다.

호수에서 틸라피아도 잡아 보고 각질을 뜯어 먹는 물고기에게

내 발도 맡겨 볼 계획입니다.

호숫가에서 숙박을 하게 되면 별빛 담긴 음료수를 마시며

노래에 취해보고 시 한 편 적어 첫 사랑 순이에게도 보낼겁니다^^

그런 날이 속히 오길-

오늘부터 기도하렵니다.

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아랫 글은 인터넷서 퍼온 레이트 홀론 관련 내용입니다

Friday, March 28, 2014

Love at first sight at Lake Holon, T'boli, South Cotabato

Our trip to T'boli was something we planned almost last minute. We only knew about this place while drafting our itinerary for Surigao del Sur and Lake Sebu. We would never have seen this beauty if not for those wonderful blog posts and pictures posted around the Internet so we were actually enticed and dared to travel to the remote community of Sitio Nabol. The trek to Lake Holon would be less special if not for the T'boli locals who made sure we enjoy the whole experience and have also shared their culture, home and smiles with us.

birds eye view of Mt. Parker and Lake Holon - define lovely!!! (photo credit: Len Marcelo Jingco ChoosePhilippines)

Mt. Melibingoy, also commonly known as Mt. Parker is a dormant stratovolcano located at the municipality of T'boli, South Cotabato. Towering for over 1,800 meters above sea level, it has been said to have only erupted thrice, the most recent one recorded September 1995, when the lake overflowed, taking with it lives of more than 50 people.

Welcome to Lake Holon!

While the background of its T'boli name, Mt. Melibingoy , means "to be seen everywhere" in the native tongue, and has also been long considered by T'boli locals as sacred, the origin of how it got its English name was actually quite tragic. Parker represents the demise of General Frank Parker, an American pilot who have died on a plane crash while surveying the surroundings of the mountain. Hearsay from locals was that the body was never found, attesting to how mystical the place is.

Even though we were already at Mt. Parker, we did not ambition to reach its peak, but only to see its majestic and not (yet) so famous lake , Lake Holon. Formerly named as Lake Maughan, this was the result of the devastating eruption of this volcano on January 4, 1641. It now brings pride to the province by being recognized as one of the cleanest body of water in the Philippines. The history of its name is said to come from a T'boli ancestor named Ma Ugan. It was officially named as Lake Holon last 2002. There is no recorded data yet as to how deep exactly Lake Holon is, same as with the Enchanted River of Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur.

panoramic view - sweet!

The trek had been arduous and a painstaking task for me (literally), even though everyone kept telling me the trail was labeled for beginners. I could not imagine what advanced trails must be like. The three-hour upward hike has proven to be worth my time once I have seen this obstructed view of the lake. It pained me to look away from this, but it just motivated me more knowing I'm only few minutes away from getting a wide photographic scene of Lake Holon. Knees and ankles aching, I pushed myself to move forward.

My first glance at Lake Holon

Even though the trail down was slippery and proved to be more difficult, I was able to reach camp after thirty minutes. Heart thumping wildly, eyes filled with joy and grin so wide, I felt like I've gone bananas. Broad and majestic, yet so serene, its waters clean and still. I wanted to have this moment last for a lifetime. Yes, this could probably be a love at first sight.

it must have been nice to try out this local wooden boat, but of course, I chickened out.

I distanced myself to the group come nighttime. The crater lake shed a different shed of color and it seemed like I was in a different place again. It seemed like the perfect backdrop for a music video and thank goodness for my iPod to supplement the right music. The temperature dropped as low as 15 degrees, I slept shivering and my back crushing the cold damp grass, but I did not complain, that was probably one of the best sleep I have had for years.

We were told that Lake Holon has been a home to the enchanted creatures such as diwatas, locals even attribute its serenity and clean pristine state to their guidance and powers. There were stories of hikers actually hearing jubilant sounds at around 3am morning. I woke up different times of the night hoping to have a sighting of the mysterious "party" of the Encantadias, to no avail.

blue hues of the lake, I am in heaven!

I never thought there could exist such place in province rarely visited such as South Cotabato. This almost surreal beauty is now gaining some popularity, thanks to its striving tourism officers, friendly indigenous tribespeople and amazing panoramic landscapes.

The next morning, I woke up early to hopefully catch the sunrise view at the crater lake. Though the sky is still warning us of great rain, it was also that bitter sign of the need to leave and move forward to our next destination. And just like one's first heart break, it will probably take me some time to get over Lake Holon.

How to go to T'boli, South Cotabato

From Davao:
Take buses that head for Koronadal/Marbel. Yellow Bus Line offers Davao-Koronadal route that pass by General Santos, trip will take around 2-3 hours. From Marbel, there are vans that can take you to T'boli with "Direct T'boli" sign. Trip will take around 45 minutes to an hour.

How to reach Lake Holon/Mt.Melibingoy:

From T'boli:
Tourists must register first at Municipal Tourism Office of T'boli to secure local guides. From there, you have to take a one-hour skylab ride to Barangay Salacafe (100 pesos per person), that would serve as the starting point of the trek to Mt.Melibingoy. You may also negotiate for porters before you proceed with the trek. It would take around three to four hours of hiking to Lake Holon. 

Contact Persons (T'boli Tourism Officers)
Ronilo Magsael "Kuya Ronie" - 09056454662
Alexander Montallana "Kuya Alex" - 09354206981